PETRA!!! The Finale

By the length of time the blog has taken to explore Petra, it must seem like we'd been there for DAYS when in reality we only had one day there. It wasn't nearly enough. When you go to Petra, make sure you can carve out at least two days. It simply doesn't do to hurry your way through. You must savor every essence. 

This, by the way, is the same advice I give to folks planning a visit to Yosemite. Give yourself a minimum of two days in winter, three in summer. I shake my head in wonder at those who stop at our visitor center at 11 am with plans to see Yosemite and be in San Francisco by 9 pm that night.

I left the group to go their own directions after lunch, and I took off by myself. In the last Petra Post, I had just visited the Bysantine Church now under archeological excavation by Brown University.

It would have been between 1 to 2 pm by this time, and the day was hot. I took it slow and easy as I started back toward the Siq and civilization.

Betty and I shared innumerable messages before I left the States. In one of them I told her that I hadn't been able to find the medication I take for my gout flareups. I knew where I kept it--and it wasn't where it should have been. There wasn't enough time to get a prescription refill, and Betty determined that it would be a prescription med in Israel also. My only alternative--pray that the gout wouldn't flare up.

Of course it did. 

I could feel it as I began the trek back toward the hotel. 

Debating the wisdom of climbing up to the Royal Tombs, I decided it was an opportunity I wasn't going to miss. If I hadn't followed through on that hunch, I would have missed the part of Petra that most touched my heart.

It would be a slog up many steps to reach them, which was my main hesitation. But I'd opted out of the Monastery, and I wasn't going to miss this.

Up I went, and it reminded me somewhat of the steps up Yosemite's Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Fall--only the steps weren't a foot tall and slippery wet.  Just a bit long.

As I wound up the trail, a number of Bedouin shops lined the steps. Most of the shopkeepers were taking their afternoon siesta but at the sound of my footsteps, each raised his head. "Look, Lady. Nice souvenirs."

At one point in the trek, I came upon someone enjoying the scant shade of a cleft in the rocks.  It was even too hot for some of the animals although most likely it was the donkey's owner who was most enjoying the shade and a bit of solitude.

The steps were not too deep, so the walk went quickly up to the tombs.

A better view of merchants and tombs

One of the sets of stairs leading to the Royal Tombs.

As I reached the final landing, wouldn't you know it? There were Shelby, Linda, Tony and Terry once again. "You're just about there," they said. "You'll be amazed." 

They were just finishing up their visit, so they continued down the steps while I made my way up.

The tombs themselves were amazing, inside and out.

Facade of one of the Royal Tombs 

'Entrance to one of the Royal Tombs. 

The sheer massiveness of the construction, which was carved from above directly into the face of the sandstone cliffs is enough to blow one's mind. To think that this all took place over 2,000 years ago is even more daunting. To realize that those who earn their living in Petra are descendants of those original Nabateans really gives one pause.

The tomb interiors were equally impressive.

I suppose it makes sense to take advantage of the shaded tomb to set up shop.

The colors found in the cliffs and rocks were mind-boggling, not to mention the textures of the swirls of rocks

This arch was carved into one of the tombs, exposing the intricate natural colors of the sandstone.

I felt as though I could get lost among the ages if I followed this tomb to its endpoint.

I wandered among the catacombs for a while then turned to face outside, back toward the basin and the cliffs. It was then that I spotted this scene.

As I looked out of the tomb, a Bedouin policeman stood at the very
edge of the ledge, looking out over his homeland. This scene
simply took my breath away. I imagined that I was looking
out over the ages, back in time to the beginning of Petra.
The trek up to the tombs was worth this single moment.

"My" Bedouin

Another shot of "my" Bedouin

As I stood mesmerized by this scene, a couple entered the tomb. They were from the United States also, I can't remember where from now, and the scene captured their imagination, as well. The fellow was a photographer, equipped with something more than just a cell phone, and took a few moments to memorialize the moment.

I had to laugh.

"Would it break the spell for you to know that he's on a cell phone?"

My photographer companion nodded and chuckled as well.

Ancient vs. modern, even in Petra.

***

Descending the steps back to the canyon floor, I started the trek back to the hotel. Repeatedly Bedouins with their camels, donkeys and carriages asked me if I wanted a ride. I must have looked like I needed one.

Honestly the walk was easy, except that my foot had begun to ache in earnest. I could make it to the hotel, but I began to wonder what the next day would hold if I couldn't figure out a remedy overnight.

At the little shop at the entrance to the Siq, I met up with Linda, Shelby and Terry yet again and this time accompanied them back to the hotel. They had enjoyed their time in Petra as I had, and all of us wished we had more of it to explore the area in depth.

PETRA!!! Part 3

We trekked about three hours into Petra before taking a tea/lemonade break at one of the stands along the way, not far beyond the theatre, pictured below.. I just drank my water, but everyone said the lemonade with mint was delicious.

Looking across the way from our tea break at a shop owned a run by the lady from "Married to a Bedouin."

The Theatre. Every ancient town had one.

You can see tombs carved into the cliffs above, all along our walk.

Merchant stalls lined the walkway up to the Royal Tombs.

Where the Siq had been narrow and confining, much like the slot canyons of Utah, the area beyond the theatre opened up to expansive views. From this place, we could see part of the village of Wadi Musa.

Petra merchants "commute" from the town above via donkey or on foot since they were moved out of Petra.

A bit of the view as we approached the basin area.

Suddenly forward progress was impeded by a traffic jam, Petra-style.

About 50 goats and their minders blocked our path. I wanted to scoop them all up and ship them home to my daughter. She wanted them, too, but they ended up staying in Petra.

Zac did his best to get them to move, but the goats ruled.

The Bedouin policeman didn't have any better luck.

Finally the goats moved on, and so did we, along the Cardo that led to the basin where our lunch spot was located. Once again we feasted on excellent Jordanian cuisine. 

Although a nap at this point would have been appetizing, we were left on our own to explore Petra. Bob, Martha, Jerry and Marsha headed up to the Monestary, which is supposed to be the most beautiful relic/ruin in Petra. It required a hike and some 900 steps, and I thought I was game for it, too, until I kept getting passed by folks on donkeys who were taking the easy way up. I turned around and decided to explore other areas. I was sure glad I made that decision at the end of the day.

I headed back toward the Siq and met up with Gila, who was surprised to see me. "Are you by yourself? Maybe you should catch up with Shelby, Linda, Tony and Terry." I actually welcomed the opportunity to do a bit of hiking alone and told her that. 

I passed the remains of the temple.

Excavation of Petra is still a work-in-progress, and Brown University is doing an archeological dig to excavate the site of a Byzantine church opposite the temple.

This panroama, taken from the Royal Tombs, looks backt oward the basin. The white structure in the upper right of the photo is the site of the Byzantine Church excavation.

Byzantine Church Ruins

 Excavation of Petra is still a work-in-progress, and Brown University is doing an archeological dig to excavate the site of a Byzantine church opposite the temple.

Part of the church dig

Byzantine Church Mosaic

As I arrived at the church, I met up with Shelby, Linda and crew. They, too, were surprised to see me and more surprised to see me alone. They invited me to go with them, but I hadn't yet explored the church, so I declined.

I don't ever hike alone, but on this day, in this place, I felt perfectly comfortable doing so. I bade them goodbye for now and entered the church to admire the work done there.

Next:  Onward to the Royal Tombs.