Places of the Heart

You know how you go someplace you've never been before and just feel like you're at home?

Entrance to Kibbutz Massada

That happened to me back in  November 1989 when on a family vacation we came to Bass Lake. As strange as it sounds, the minute my feet hit the earth--at midnight, after a long day's drive from Orange County--I knew this was my place. I'd loved the mountains since I was a child and recognized that, one day, I needed to plant myself where my soul would flourish. We found a house that weekend, made an offer, closed escrow on February 1, 1990, and I moved up here permanently in April.

What does this have to do with Israel, you ask?

My favorite walk in Massada

I've fallen in love with many places I've been, even considered moving to a few. Mexico City, for one (many years ago). Believe it or not, Peshawar, Pakistan (but not any more, not ever). The wilds of Wyoming. The deserts of the southwest. The Alaskan bush. 

The only ones I could seriously have considered, were it possible, are kibbutzim near the Sea of Galilee (called the Kinneret in Israel), Tzfat in the northern Galilee and Ein Kerem, a village surrounded by Jerusalem. This amazes me as much as it does you. They are all smallish, rural even. Cities are not my thing, although I dearly love Jerusalem and my memories of Mexico City. I could make my home in any one of these places, including Kibbutz Massada, where Betty lives.

I never wanted to go to Israel. In fact, I resented Israel for stealing my best friend and holding her captive. I was afraid because her earlier years there took place during the Intifadas,  She even sent photos of her bathroom turned into a bomb shelter. It took me over 30 years to develop the courage to visit her, until I realized that if I didn't, I'd likely never see her again, and that wasn't an option. 

Honestly, just like Bass Lake, it was love at first sight, and I couldn't have been more shocked. 

At last I realized why she'd left her heart there, why she made aliyah. I've left a piece of mine there, as well. At 77 it's not in my future to relocate overseas, but if I did, these are the places I'd consider:

View from the walk up to the Church of the Visitation
 in Ein Kerem. Forgive the wires.

Ein Kerem -  

• A lovely little video of the Church of St John the Baptist
• A video about the Ein Kerem neighborhood
• Aerial video of Ein Kerem
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwWTbUzQ1Yc
• A video of the Church of the Visitation

Kinneret -

• Kibbutz Massada - a drone view

Tzfat

• See my post here about this town with a storied past  (P. S. Let me know if you can't access this; it was a post in my private Facebook group.)

Wadi Rum - Out of this World

It gets old after a while, doesn't it? Someone saying "this was the most (beautiful)(fascinating)(exciting) (historical)--pick one--I've ever visited." But actually that's what happened on our Israel trip. Each place we visited built on the next, until I really hated to leave.

I had never heard of Wadi Rum until my visit to Israel and Jordan, but what a very special place it is.  I've put links in this post so you can read up as much or as little as you choose since my memory for details has faded in the last 3.5 years

Think lunar landscape dotted with huge sandstone shapes. Think Lawrence of Arabia. Picture Bedouins with their camel-hair and goat-hair tents. If you've watched "The Martian," you've seen Wadi Rum, but there's nothing like being there in person. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Bedouin encampment at Wadi Rum. Tent is made from goat hair.

The Seven Pillars of Wisdom as seen from Wadi Rum Visitor Center

Coffee Grinder

Valley of the Moon

Brewing Coffee the Bedouin Way

T. H. Lawrence - "Lawrence of Arabia" carved in stone

Our Bedouin Hosts

Zac, our Jordanian Guide, 'xplainin' things

Here I Go Again

I discontinued this blog when I got offended because a journalist in Alaska who shall be nameless purloined one of my posts and used it against someone I value. It stopped about three-quarters of the way through my first journey to Israel. My

Bedouin Police standing at edge of
Kings Tomb area, Petra, Jordan

readers (few as they were), were left high-and-dry. But now I'm back to finish where I left off.

Since my last post in 2017, our world has changed radically.

I'm no longer working,  hopefully temporarily. I've been holed up at home except for rare and short trips to the store in Oakhurst (always masked and gloved) and one trip to the family farm, 20 miles away, since March 14.

As a loner, isolation was no big deal. The dogs would like me to get a life, and the cat goes about her business as usual. What was really strange was not having someplace to be all day, every day. Strange how I relished my days off from work, when I was working, and they flew by like magic. Today is a different reality. Retirement has never been an option for me. From the beginning I said that not having a job would impact my sanity. The sanity has always been in question, but what I believed would happen, did. I find myself wandering around looking for things to do, while ignoring what I *should* do--like window washing.

After flailing around for a month trying to answer the question What is my purpose in life? I discovered it wasn't beading. I tried to prepare for a craft fair my pard Sunny and I planned to do in November and was bored to tears. I packed up my stuff and cleaned off my beading table. Done. Over.  And the craft fair has now been cancelled.

We, Sunny and I, talked about going back to writing short stories, but neither of us could think of anything we wanted to write and many--if not most--of the short story markets have dried up. In our "youth," 25 years ago, we sold a number of tales to the "confession" market, which has since evaporated.

Reading. Meditation. Walking. Watching videos. All sound like great plans. Except I'm not doing most of them.

• Gardening - a bit
• Rereading Daniel Silva's Gabriel Allon series. I'm on book 10 of 19. His books are worth rereading again and again. Can't wait for his newest, arriving on July 14.
• Watching Israeli TV via Netflix and Prime Video. I tell myself I'm learning Hebrew.
• Watching YouTube videos of places I've been and places I want to go.

The last activity is what sparked the renewal of this blog. For tomorrow, I'm going to finish up my first Israeli journey with a post about Wadi Rum and then commence on the 2018 trip, which I documented on Facebook but will go into more depth here. I'll intersperse the Israel trip posts with places I WANT to see and other random thoughts as they occur.

I found this NPR article this morning (thanks, Nicole Faille) about Petra, the Jordanian site that everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. Can't imagine what it would be like to be there now with visitors and tradespeople gone.

Here are my posts about my visit to Petra in 2016.

Petra Part 1

Petra Part 2

Petra Part 3 

Petra: The Finale

Please join along, if you feel inclined, and let's explore some exciting adventures together.

PETRA!!! The Finale

By the length of time the blog has taken to explore Petra, it must seem like we'd been there for DAYS when in reality we only had one day there. It wasn't nearly enough. When you go to Petra, make sure you can carve out at least two days. It simply doesn't do to hurry your way through. You must savor every essence. 

This, by the way, is the same advice I give to folks planning a visit to Yosemite. Give yourself a minimum of two days in winter, three in summer. I shake my head in wonder at those who stop at our visitor center at 11 am with plans to see Yosemite and be in San Francisco by 9 pm that night.

I left the group to go their own directions after lunch, and I took off by myself. In the last Petra Post, I had just visited the Bysantine Church now under archeological excavation by Brown University.

It would have been between 1 to 2 pm by this time, and the day was hot. I took it slow and easy as I started back toward the Siq and civilization.

Betty and I shared innumerable messages before I left the States. In one of them I told her that I hadn't been able to find the medication I take for my gout flareups. I knew where I kept it--and it wasn't where it should have been. There wasn't enough time to get a prescription refill, and Betty determined that it would be a prescription med in Israel also. My only alternative--pray that the gout wouldn't flare up.

Of course it did. 

I could feel it as I began the trek back toward the hotel. 

Debating the wisdom of climbing up to the Royal Tombs, I decided it was an opportunity I wasn't going to miss. If I hadn't followed through on that hunch, I would have missed the part of Petra that most touched my heart.

It would be a slog up many steps to reach them, which was my main hesitation. But I'd opted out of the Monastery, and I wasn't going to miss this.

Up I went, and it reminded me somewhat of the steps up Yosemite's Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Fall--only the steps weren't a foot tall and slippery wet.  Just a bit long.

As I wound up the trail, a number of Bedouin shops lined the steps. Most of the shopkeepers were taking their afternoon siesta but at the sound of my footsteps, each raised his head. "Look, Lady. Nice souvenirs."

At one point in the trek, I came upon someone enjoying the scant shade of a cleft in the rocks.  It was even too hot for some of the animals although most likely it was the donkey's owner who was most enjoying the shade and a bit of solitude.

The steps were not too deep, so the walk went quickly up to the tombs.

A better view of merchants and tombs

One of the sets of stairs leading to the Royal Tombs.

As I reached the final landing, wouldn't you know it? There were Shelby, Linda, Tony and Terry once again. "You're just about there," they said. "You'll be amazed." 

They were just finishing up their visit, so they continued down the steps while I made my way up.

The tombs themselves were amazing, inside and out.

Facade of one of the Royal Tombs 

'Entrance to one of the Royal Tombs. 

The sheer massiveness of the construction, which was carved from above directly into the face of the sandstone cliffs is enough to blow one's mind. To think that this all took place over 2,000 years ago is even more daunting. To realize that those who earn their living in Petra are descendants of those original Nabateans really gives one pause.

The tomb interiors were equally impressive.

I suppose it makes sense to take advantage of the shaded tomb to set up shop.

The colors found in the cliffs and rocks were mind-boggling, not to mention the textures of the swirls of rocks

This arch was carved into one of the tombs, exposing the intricate natural colors of the sandstone.

I felt as though I could get lost among the ages if I followed this tomb to its endpoint.

I wandered among the catacombs for a while then turned to face outside, back toward the basin and the cliffs. It was then that I spotted this scene.

As I looked out of the tomb, a Bedouin policeman stood at the very
edge of the ledge, looking out over his homeland. This scene
simply took my breath away. I imagined that I was looking
out over the ages, back in time to the beginning of Petra.
The trek up to the tombs was worth this single moment.

"My" Bedouin

Another shot of "my" Bedouin

As I stood mesmerized by this scene, a couple entered the tomb. They were from the United States also, I can't remember where from now, and the scene captured their imagination, as well. The fellow was a photographer, equipped with something more than just a cell phone, and took a few moments to memorialize the moment.

I had to laugh.

"Would it break the spell for you to know that he's on a cell phone?"

My photographer companion nodded and chuckled as well.

Ancient vs. modern, even in Petra.

***

Descending the steps back to the canyon floor, I started the trek back to the hotel. Repeatedly Bedouins with their camels, donkeys and carriages asked me if I wanted a ride. I must have looked like I needed one.

Honestly the walk was easy, except that my foot had begun to ache in earnest. I could make it to the hotel, but I began to wonder what the next day would hold if I couldn't figure out a remedy overnight.

At the little shop at the entrance to the Siq, I met up with Linda, Shelby and Terry yet again and this time accompanied them back to the hotel. They had enjoyed their time in Petra as I had, and all of us wished we had more of it to explore the area in depth.

PETRA!!! Part 3

We trekked about three hours into Petra before taking a tea/lemonade break at one of the stands along the way, not far beyond the theatre, pictured below.. I just drank my water, but everyone said the lemonade with mint was delicious.

Looking across the way from our tea break at a shop owned a run by the lady from "Married to a Bedouin."

The Theatre. Every ancient town had one.

You can see tombs carved into the cliffs above, all along our walk.

Merchant stalls lined the walkway up to the Royal Tombs.

Where the Siq had been narrow and confining, much like the slot canyons of Utah, the area beyond the theatre opened up to expansive views. From this place, we could see part of the village of Wadi Musa.

Petra merchants "commute" from the town above via donkey or on foot since they were moved out of Petra.

A bit of the view as we approached the basin area.

Suddenly forward progress was impeded by a traffic jam, Petra-style.

About 50 goats and their minders blocked our path. I wanted to scoop them all up and ship them home to my daughter. She wanted them, too, but they ended up staying in Petra.

Zac did his best to get them to move, but the goats ruled.

The Bedouin policeman didn't have any better luck.

Finally the goats moved on, and so did we, along the Cardo that led to the basin where our lunch spot was located. Once again we feasted on excellent Jordanian cuisine. 

Although a nap at this point would have been appetizing, we were left on our own to explore Petra. Bob, Martha, Jerry and Marsha headed up to the Monestary, which is supposed to be the most beautiful relic/ruin in Petra. It required a hike and some 900 steps, and I thought I was game for it, too, until I kept getting passed by folks on donkeys who were taking the easy way up. I turned around and decided to explore other areas. I was sure glad I made that decision at the end of the day.

I headed back toward the Siq and met up with Gila, who was surprised to see me. "Are you by yourself? Maybe you should catch up with Shelby, Linda, Tony and Terry." I actually welcomed the opportunity to do a bit of hiking alone and told her that. 

I passed the remains of the temple.

Excavation of Petra is still a work-in-progress, and Brown University is doing an archeological dig to excavate the site of a Byzantine church opposite the temple.

This panroama, taken from the Royal Tombs, looks backt oward the basin. The white structure in the upper right of the photo is the site of the Byzantine Church excavation.

Byzantine Church Ruins

 Excavation of Petra is still a work-in-progress, and Brown University is doing an archeological dig to excavate the site of a Byzantine church opposite the temple.

Part of the church dig

Byzantine Church Mosaic

As I arrived at the church, I met up with Shelby, Linda and crew. They, too, were surprised to see me and more surprised to see me alone. They invited me to go with them, but I hadn't yet explored the church, so I declined.

I don't ever hike alone, but on this day, in this place, I felt perfectly comfortable doing so. I bade them goodbye for now and entered the church to admire the work done there.

Next:  Onward to the Royal Tombs.

PETRA!!! Part 2

As we listened to Zac, it became really clear that this wasn't his first time at Petra. He was well-schooled in all the nuances of the site. After about two hours of hiking, he stopped us and insisted that we all move to the right and form a straight line, one after the other.

"No, no--get back. All the way to the right. No cheating," he admonished.  "I'm going to show you a treasure of gold."

When he was satisfied that we had positioned ourselves properly, he released us. As we moved left, this sight greeted us.

Al Khazneh - The Treasury, the most recognizable feature of Petra.

Before us stood Al Khazneh, the Treasury, that quinfessential symbol of Petra, just as Tunnel View is the quintessential view of Yosemite. As with one breath, we all exclaimed "ahhhhhhhh........." Some of the group had already figured out what Zac was going to show us. I, naive, as usual, didn't. Even though I knew it would be there at some point, it still took me by surprise. And awe. You can see by the men standing and seated at its base that its sheer size is overwhelming.

Are you thinking this is a temple? It's not. It's a tomb built for one of the Nabatean kings. And it was carved directly into the sandstone of the mountain, from the top down.  To create something this magnificent today would be quite a feat. To do it with what must have been rudimentary tools 2,000 years ago is unimaginable. And yet there it is.

Al Khazneh sits at the precise point where the Siq opens up into a large open courtyard, populated by donkeys, camels and horses, led by their Bedouin masters. Several ramshackle stalls stood in the shadow of Al Khazneh.

In the foreground, Terry explores the conveyance of the moment
In the background:  one of the local "shops" that cater to the thousands of tourists who
pass through Petra's canyons.

Taking a bit of a siesta

I absolutely love these guys with their ungainly gait and their expressive faces. 

A set of stairs leads up the cliffs. I call it a "stairway to heaven."

Living with the land . . . Bedouin shops line the road or trail that leads from the Treasury on down to the basin.

Tombs above, restroom facilities are cut into the cliffs much as the tombs (above) have been etched out of the sandstone.

If you thought these were all the treasures Petra holds, you'd be very wrong.

PETRA!!! Part 1

For many of the 22 of us on the tour the primary destination would be Petra. This was the culmination of what they hoped to see during our 12-day journey. I am embarrassed to admit that I knew so little about Petra before I booked the tour that it was just another "place" to me. Of course, I'd seen "Indiana Jones & the Last Crusade" and the other Indiana Jones movies, but it didn't sink in that part of the movie was set in Petra.

Honestly, with the opportunity to look back on the journey, I would love to be able to go back with unlimited time and explore each and every place we visited extensively.  As I tell first-time visitors to Yosemite, you can't do this place justice in less than two to three days (at a minimum).

Because there's so much to see and learn, there will be at least three posts covering the Rose Red City. 

We arrived at the Movenpick Resort hotel late in the afternoon. The hotel sat just yards from the entrance to Petra. The following day we would depart early and on foot to explore the wonders of the Rose Red City.

This somewhat unimpressive "road" is the entrance to the canyon ("Siq") and gives little hint at the magnificence
that awaits us. These rock formations reminded me of the rocks of Utah.

This is the Siq (canyon) leading to the main part of Petra.

It's worth noting that not one of my photos begins to properly illustrate the grandeur of Petra.  If you see photos that you think are pretty amazing, multiply that amazement by ten. It is that impressive.

These photos only hint at the striations of color contained in the canyon walls. 

The cliffs are dotted with openings, as in the photo above. These holes are tombs carved out of the cliffs. 

As "they" say, " you ain't seen nothin' yet." 

As we walked the Siq, Zac, our guide, talked about the people who created this place, the Nabateans.  They were an Arab people who inhabited this hidden canyon in the 200 to 300 years before the Christian Era. They were traders, particularly in frankincense and myrrh. And they had found and created the perfect place to build a hidden city.

The above photo, taken from an overlook above the city of Wadi Musa and Petra, shows how hidden the city was and is. 

Above, Nabatean guards protect the entrance to the city.

The tribe of B'doul Bedouins are the descendants of the ancient Nabateans, and they have been given special permission by the King of Jordan to be able to set up shops inside Petra. They also provide a sort of taxi service, via horse- and donkey-drawn carts as well as camels to transport those who don't feel like making the trek on their own feet.

Above is a sample of a Petra taxi. 

If there were any one negative factor about Petra, for me it would be the pervasiveness of the Bedouin "hawkers." They were ever-present and extremely persistent. We'd been warned about this, and Zac taught us all how to say "no, thanks!" in Arabic. It didn't do any good. If you said no, they'd come back with "later, maybe, Lady?" 

Yet the Bedouin have a right to lay claim to this place which has been their home for over 2,000 years. In fact until the 1980's they actually made their homes in the caves lining the cliffs of Petra, until Petra was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they were moved to modern housing a short distance away.

Above is a niche where the Nabateans kept statues of their gods as well as a rudimentary staircase up the cliff. Judging from the steepness of the cliffs, it would seem the Bedouins are descended from mountain goats.

Our journey down the Siq was plodding as Zac acquainted us with its history. During its heydey Petra's population exceeded 20,000. How could a site this isolated support such a number of people? 

The Nabateans were engineers as well as artists. They built cisterns, dams and waterways to preserve and carry the life-giving liquid through the city.

Behind this wall is a cistern to store water.

As we traversed the Siq, Zac had us stop for just a moment, where Lorenzo and Mary
"renewed their vows" in side-by-side niches carved into the hillside.

As we listened to Zac, it became really clear that this wasn't his first time here. He was well-schooled in all the nuances of the site. After about two hours of hiking, he stopped us and insisted that we all move to the right and form a straight line, one after the other.

"No, no--get back. All the way to the right. No cheating," he admonished.  "I'm going to show you a treasure of gold."

What was it?